Heading down to Kerry from Dublin is a fair old trek, after 2 hours on the road you reach the delightful town of Adare in Limerick. It’s one of those gateway towns, you know the type, when you get there you could be forgiven for thinking you had nearly reached your destination. Gone are the boring soulless motorways where the speed dial tickles 120kph replaced with narrow winding roads, imposing mountains and beautiful stretches of wild Atlantic coastline. The fact the first section is over 200km yet the remaining 150km takes even longer tells you all you need to know. My destination of choice for this trip was the townland of Dún Géagáin just outside the village of Baile’n Sceilg or Ballinskelligs to give it it’s anglicised name. As the name would suggest, it’s a Gaeltacht region, an Irish speaking area, although with the scarcity of population around these parts you’re as likely to hear braying donkeys or errant tourists as you are to hear the soft lilt of a Kerry gaeilgeoir.